Edinburgh, Calton Hill, & the Quest for a Scottish Democracy
A new illustration of Edinburgh, the history of the Democracy Cairn, plus upcoming events
Recently I’ve been illustrating a new picture of Edinburgh, my home city. It’s a place I’ve drawn many times before, in various forms, including a city map in my Atlas of Scotland. It’s an interesting place to draw, with all it’s vistas, towers, fortifications, and rocky heights.
Over a decade ago, not long after the 2014 Scottish independence referendum, I sat down to draw something which would capture the memory of that momentous time in Scotland, specifically how it played out in the capital. I decided to draw a scene I called ‘March on Calton Hill’ (pictured below) a simple illustration inspired by the mass gatherings once held up on the hill with sweeping panoramas overlooking Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth.
Those pre-referendum gatherings on Calton Hill and elsewhere are still special memories to me, filled with hope and possibility for a free and self-governing future. I also wrote about them in my first book, Summer of Independence.
Recently I decided it was time to re-visit this Edinburgh vista and see if I could make a new, more detailed version of it, capturing a similar angle of the city with Calton Hill in the foreground and the Old Town behind, but also applying some new techniques I have learned along the way. Below you’ll see a rough sketchbook idea (left) and my new drawing in progress (right).


The image below (in blue and yellow) is the final coloured result. This time I have set Edinburgh at night beneath the moon, partly inspired by the 18th century poet Robert Fergusson who wrote fondly of the city: ‘Auld Reikie, wale o' ilka town / That Scotland kens beneath the moon!’
This new design captures a similar perspective over the city. Time has passed and the gatherings on Calton Hill have gone, but if you look closely you’ll see the Democracy Cairn (bottom right hand corner), burning bright.
What is the Democracy Cairn? It’s perhaps the smallest and least prominent monument on Calton Hill, but to me it is one of its most meaningful and significant. Tucked away behind the classical columns and the imposing tower, the cairn comprises a mound of stones topped by a decorative brazier.
It stands in tribute to the Vigil for a Scottish Parliament, a makeshift camp which once occupied a position at the base of Calton Hill, and the activists and campaigners who worked to make the case for that new Parliament, which eventually arrived in 1999.


There’s something wonderfully grassroots about the hand-built Democracy Cairn up against the very-official-indeed silhouette of columns on the hill. It’s a reflection of Scotland’s people-powered journey towards self-determination. Most importantly, it’s a reminder to persevere. There is still a Scottish democracy to be won.
The foot of the Democracy Cairn is inscribed with these lines of poetry by Hugh MacDiarmid: ‘For we ha’e faith in Scotland's hidden poo’ers / The present’s theirs but a’ the past and future’s oors.’


As others see us
This week the polling company YouGov gave us an interesting insight into international perceptions of Scotland, with huge majorities in Europe saying they would welcome an independent Scotland into the EU. See the results here.
Upcoming events
I’ve been taking my work to arts and crafts markets across Scotland this summer, and now I’m coming to my final three fairs of the season:
19 July: Glasgow Summer Fair (Trades Hall, Glasgow) 10.30am - 5pm.
25 & 26 July: V&A Summer Design Market (V&A Dundee) 10am - 5pm.
28 July - 24 August: West End Fair (St John’s, Princes Street, Edinburgh) 11am - 6pm.
Edinburgh’s West End Fair is the big one. I’ll be there for the full run 28 July - 24 August. Last year I had a booth in the marquee area (picture below), but this time I’ll have my own wee shed with a bit more room. Since the fair will be running for a few weeks, it means I’ll be able to set up my work differently and offer a few different things, like framed pictures, as well as my usual prints, cards and books. Feel free to come by and say hello.
A bit about me. I am a writer, illustrator, and map-maker based in Edinburgh. My work aims to make Scottish history and culture more accessible through a variety of unique creative projects. I am the author of 3 illustrated books covering Scottish history, culture, current affairs. My latest book, the Atlas of Scotland, uses hand-drawn maps and illustrations to tell Scotland’s story, including Scotland’s historic European and international connections. Here you will find links to my website, my online shop, and my accounts on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook.
Great article Andrew, good to see the processes behind your new print, it is beautiful! Good too to be reminded of the referendum and the optimism in our country, the cairn and campaign on Carlton Hill, a special time.